Learning how to apply shimmery eyeshadow is easier than you think! Shimmery eyeshadows tend to have softer, more forgiving formulas that blend more readily. I’ve rounded up my go-to tips for working with shimmer and metallic eyeshadows from figuring out what method to start with, what brushes work better, and how to modify your technique to achieve the effect you desire.
Step 1: Choose Your Tool
Consider how you prefer to apply your shimmery eyeshadows before buying a particular formula. These days, there are more formulations and shades releasing that are best with fingertips, which some have no problem using and others loathe to do so. I know that for me, while patting a shimmer onto the center of the lid isn’t a hassle, while trying to maneuver color into my inner lid or outer lid with any semblance of precision is nearly impossible with my fingertips!
Other times, an eyeshadow might look its best when applied with a dampened brush (whether water or an adhesive spray, like MAC Fix+), and this is not always a step someone wants to bother with. You’ll want to look for key phrases like “wet/dry” or “use fingertips for best pigmentation.”
Step 2: Choose the Effect
For greater pigmentation, you’ll want to use denser brushes for creamier formulas and press and gently push and pat the color into place. The denser brush will do a better job picking up product and then give you greater precision and help with the pressure needed to pat, pack, and press the eyeshadow into place. I gently pull and sweep in very small back-and-forth motions (like 1-2mm in range) as needed to disperse and spread the eyeshadow over the lid.
Intensify the sheen and shine using a dampened brush or applicator. With most shimmery shades (true frosts and metallics; satins can depend), it doesn’t usually matter whether a dampened brush is used directly in the pan or not but it’s never a bad idea to pick up product first and then spritz the brush after.
By dampening the brush, it helps bind the eyesahdow better and yields a smoother, more metallic/reflective finish and can sometimes deepen the actual hue of the shade. Your best bet would be to use an adhesive spray, like MAC Fix+, which dampens but also improves the hold, too.
For a sheerer effect, use a fluffy brush to blow out and diffuse the shimmer. I know, I know, why did you buy a metallic eyeshadow if you didn’t want a metallic one? It’s about getting the most out of your eyeshadow–just because it’s metallic doesn’t mean you can’t tamp it down a bit for a different look. By using a less dense brush, you’ll get a softer result, including the shimmer, and you can get a wet-looking lid while you’re at it.
Fingertips also work well for applying a shimmery eyeshadow all over the lid, as the fingertip’s warmth helps to spread and really diffuse the edges for a one-and-done look.
Step 3: Fixing Common Problems
If you feel like the eyeshadow you’ve used is too metallic, try patting a matte eyeshadow on top to minimize the metallic or shimmery finish. This can work with translucent powder, but I tend to prefer using a satin or matte shade in a similar hue lightly patted on, which doesn’t alter the base color too much but can tamp down a metallic eyeshadow that might be emphasizing my lid’s texture.
Smooth out the shimmer of a drier eyeshadow with a dampened brush or a fingertip. Oh, that shimmer eyeshadow looked so pretty in the pan but on the lid it looks a little blah or almost dry or gritty on the lid instead of reflective and sparkling? It’s not too late–if you press lightly with a fingertip, it can help “melt” the product onto the lid or a lightly dampened brush (without any additional product) minimizes the dryness and can smooth the eyeshadow significantly.
You can even take a dampened brush (without additional product) and gently press and pat over the shimmery eyeshadow to help smooth it out for a more refined finish — this is especially useful if the shimmer emphasized lid texture!
Avoid fallout by using a tacky base or glitter glue/adhesive with sparkling and glittery eyeshadows. Glitter formulations are getting better over time, but there are still quite a few variations out there that, while not as bad as before, can still have fallout over time and nobody wants glitter in the eye.
I use something like Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy or Too Faced Glitter Glue, which both help quite a bit (the latter is better for a full-on glitter/sparkle product). I keep glitter glues confined to the area I want glitter, because I find that other, more traditional eyeshadow bases/primers are easier to apply and blend product over than glitter glues.
For more tips and tricks on applying eyeshadow, check out this post!